I woke up in the night feeling a bit short of breath and for the next hour or two slept uneasily. Then at three in the morning, I started to pee! Judging by the bucket...half a gallon in less than an hour! Combined with the continuing shortness of breath, I felt very uncomfortable and wondered if I was getting symptons of acute mountain sickness.

After a brief but decisive discussion at breakfast, we collectively decided that instead of spending one last day at Sunderview we would leave Eaglenest a day early and head down to the lower altitude of Kaziranga. I felt a bit of a wimp but was glad we were heading down. Abid managed to sort out accommodation for the extra night at Jupuri garh and Mandy, Paul and Rachael were really supportive.

I began to feel better as soon as we started to lose some altitude. It was a long journey down to Kaziranga, made longer by necessary repairs to to a tyre mid morning. We stopped for lunch at Nameri Ecocamp and even had chance for a quick game of football with some of the locals and guests.

Eventually, we arrived at Jupuri ghar (our accommodation while at Kaziranga) in the late afternoon and we were pleased to find our cabins were relatively luxurious and the immediate countryside full of birdsong. We all felt the need to 'chill' after spending most of the day in the car, so we sat on the verandah outside our cabins and drank what remained of the beer stocks we had brought from Eaglenest.

Our cabins were very cosy and I would say it was the highest standard of accommodation we had during the trip. We had a pleasant dinner and were early to bed ready for another dawn start to look for blue-naped pitta in one of the local tea plantations.

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